Phespirit goes to Slovenia
Kranjska Gora     May/June 2005

When Phespirit first visited Slovenia he was genuinely captivated the place. Five years later he still lauds it as the country in which he'd most like to live, outside the U.K., if language were no obstacle. Tragically language remains an enormous obstacle to Phespirit setting up home anywhere on the continent ..... but it does not excuse him for waiting half a decade before returning to the Julian Alps.

Having already ticked off most of the tourist 'must see' boxes during his visit to Bled in May/June 2000, Phespirit went to Kranjska Gora simply to hike and breathe. The town is situated in Slovenia's northwest, just beyond the northern borders of Triglav National Park in a valley that runs east-west between ranges of the Karawanken mountains and the Julian Alps. During the winter it is a noted ski resort, having played host to the Ski World Cup in February 2005, whilst in the warmer months visitors can walk its extensive network of hiking trails. Phespirit did the latter in unseasonably searing sunshine.

The trails are generally well marked and well maintained. Scattered destinations such as Alpine huts, mountain peaks, villages, lakes and waterfalls give purpose to the effort. Arrival at them is both reward and relief. Phespirit planned out half a dozen walks. Noteworthy amongst these were:

• The section of hiking trail 1 between Lake Jasna and River Martuljek where, after descending and ascending some wooden steps to pass a minor waterfall, the trail seemed to vanish on a densely wooded, steeply sloping hillside. Phespirit only rediscovered it after a frustrating half hour spent sidewinding down and up the intimidating terrain, made slippery by fallen leaves.
  Top tip: veer a little to the right and bear slightly uphill.

• The relatively short walk along trail 13 from the chairlift station by Dom na Vitrancu up to Ciprnik peak. It's a bit of a scramble at the end but Phespirit was ultimately rewarded with fine 360° views of the valley, a swig of scotch from the hip flask of an English hiker, and a shot of schnapps plus a cocktail of red wine and orange Fanta from a Slovenian couple.

• The accidental epic that started out simply as a long Sunday stroll along the Vrata valley from Mojstrana to Alježev Dom and back to Mojstrana (about 26km in total), but which became a genuine marathon when the absence of buses meant that Phespirit then had to walk all the way back to Kranjska Gora (roughly 18km). Not recommended in temperatures exceeding 30°C.

For less tiring recreation Phespirit boarded a bus to revisit the beautiful city of Ljubljana, and boarded a coach to venture across the Italian border and admire Lago del Predil. Now, having boarded a plane and returned to England, Phespirit remains fixed in his view that Slovenia is still probably the most wonderful country in continental Europe.