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Going for a walk around Kranjska Gora - Lines I to VI

Going for a walk around Kranjska Gora - Lines I to VI - Map

Phespirit completed six walks around Kranjska Gora, to the east, the south and the west.

  1. Kranjska Gora - Jasna - Spodnji Martuljkov slap - Gozd-Martuljek - Kranjska Gora   [appr. 20km]

    Phespirit left Hotel Kompas [H] and walked to the south side of town. He began his six and a half hour hike by setting out on trail 1 from Hotel Casinò, across Drčev Rut to Lake Jasna [1]. After a brief wander around the lake he returned to the trail, heading eastwards toward the River Martuljek. About an hour and a half into this hike the broad, gritted track becomes a single-file footpath. Five minutes later it descends via narrow wooden stairs to a tiny babbling waterfall [2]. Up the other side, it should have only taken five more minutes to find the broad track leading to Godz-Martuljek, but poor or non-existent signposts meant that Phespirit was lost in the woods for half an hour before retracing his steps back to the waterfall. He eventually headed up and slightly to the right to get back on course (small wooden stakes in the ground and red paint marks on trees had lead him astray and should be ignored). After a further half an hour on track 1, Phespirit veered south onto track 6 to reach River Martuljek [3], twenty-five minutes further on. After a twenty minute lunch break, he headed back north along track 6 - somehow getting lost again - and in a little over an hour reached the indisputable highlight of the hike: the mighty Spodnjl Martuljkov waterfall [4]. After a further half an hour's descent through the river gorge, Phespirit reached the main road between Kranjska Gora and neighbouring Godz-Martuljek [5]. He had a brief look around Godz-Martuljek before beginning the hour long hike along trail 5 back to Kranjska Gora.

  2. Kranjska Gora - Podkoren - Ratece - Dom Planica - Pl. dom Tamar - Kranjska Gora   [appr. 31km]

    A longer walk than Line I, lasting eight hours in total, but simpler and much more enjoyable. All the footpaths are good, wide and well marked. Leaving the centre of Kranjska Gora, Phespirit crossed the main road to get onto trail 10, leading westwards on to trail 3, passing an ostrich farm(!) and arriving at the small village of Podkoren [1], forty-five minutes later. After a brief rest - on what was an exceptionally hot day - Phespirit left the village, crossing back over the main road for an hour's walk along trail 12, with a minor detour for the picturesque lake at Zelenci [2], to the village of Rateče [3]. Half an hour south out of Rateče, along a proper road that serves as trail 11, Phespirit arrived at the Dom Planica hut [4] where he took a half hour break and bought refreshments. Next, the final push south through the magnificent scenery of Triglav National Park: three-quarters of an hour to reach the meadow in front of the Dom Tamar hut, and then a ninety minute detour up to the source of the Izvir Nadiže waterfall [5] in a rockface just to the west. Back at Dom Tamar [6], after a light white wine, Phespirit set off back to Kranjska Gora, taking a leisurely two and a quarter hour stroll via the east branch of trail 9 and back onto trail 12, all the way into town.

  3. Dom na Vitrancu - Ciprnik - Dom na Vitrancu   [appr. 4km]

    A walk which, according to the map, ought to be short and sweet, but is actually quite hard work in places. Two chairlift rides carried Phespirit from Kranjska Gora to the vicinity of Dom na Vitrancu hut [1]. Trail 13 starts nearby - a narrow footpath with lots of ups and downs, culminating in a bit of a steep scramble to reach Ciprnik peak [2]. Phespirit took about forty-five minutes each way, which was quite a bit quicker than the pace most hikers were setting.

  4. Kranjska Gora - Jasna - Koča v Krnici - Jasna - Kranjska Gora   [appr. 18km]

    Another fairly straightforward walk, this time to the Koča v Krnici hut, hiking there and back along the same wide track. Phespirit began on the main road south out of Kranjska Gora, reaching Lake Jasna [1] after twenty minutes, and the start of trail 8 another twenty minutes on where the road crosses the Velika Pisnica river [A]. From this point, trail 8 leads south into Triglav National Park along the Velika Pisnica valley, before veering southeast away from the river for the final couple of kilometres. It took Phespirit just over an hour to reach Koča v Krnici [B]. The hut is small and dark, with green and white shuttered windows, benches and tables outside, all encircled by pine trees, all encircled by mountain crags. Phespirit rested here and enjoyed a refreshing white wine before retracing his steps to Kranjska Gora.

  5. Mojstrana - Slap Peričnik - Aljažev Dom - Mojstrana - Gozd-Martuljek - Kranjska Gora   [appr. 44km]

    This one started out the easy way and ended the hard way. To begin, Phespirit caught the bus from Kranjska Gora to Mojstrana [A], arriving at 10:35am. He walked trails 15 and 16 along the Vrata valley, reaching the entrance to Triglav National Park (signposted next to a bridge over the River Bistrica) at a quarter past eleven. A further three quarters of an hour along the valley road - still on trail 16 - Phespirit arrived at the roaring Slap Peričnik waterfall [B]. This waterfall has the novelty of a narrow footpath that actually leads behind the falls itself. Back on the road after quarter of an hour, Phespirit pressed onwards with an hour and a half hike's to Aljažev Dom, his final destination. He detoured from the road [C] onto a narrow undulating footpath via the rocky 'Galerije' and rejoined it later [D] for the last few kilometres. At the Aljažev Dom hut [E] he paid vastly inflated prices for a Radenska mineral water and a Piran chocolate cornet whilst taking some much needed rest. At 2:25pm he began retracing his steps, arriving back at the bus stop in Mojstrana around 4:35pm. Phespirit was there, but the buses were not - services are reduced on a Sunday - which meant he had no choice but to walk all the way back to Kranjska Gora, about 18km away. He left Mojstrana at 5:25pm and reached Godz-Martuljek [5] an hour and a half later. His water had all but run out so he slumped into the Hotel Špik to fortify himself with a Fanta at the bar. Temperatures were still around 30°C, as they had been all day. Another hour of walking along trail 5 got him back to Kranjska Gora, where he finally reached Hotel Kompas [H] at 8:00pm. He was utterly, utterly shattered.

  6. Ticarjev Dom - Poštarski dom na Vršiču - Ticarjev Dom   [appr. 1km]

    The last line, Line VI, wasn't a 'hike' as such, but Phespirit includes it here for symmetry. Having journeyed by coach to the top of the Vršič Pass, Phespirit completed the short uphill walk from Ticarjev Dom [A] (the restaurant hut by the road, swarming with tourists), to Poštarski dom na Vršiču [B] (the deserted hut at the peak of the pass, apparently closed for the season). This is well worth doing for best views of the natural rock formation known as 'Ajdovska deklica', which supposedly looks like the face of a girl, although Phespirit wouldn't have said so himself.

DISCLAIMER: It is strongly recommended that visitors take a good local map when setting out on these walks; Phespirit accepts no responsibility if the use of this web page results in visitors becoming lost, injured, maimed, killed or missing their bus.

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