Having crossed the border from Macedonia, Phespirit gazes with feverish excitement at the Serbian landscape.
See how his body is unnaturally contorted? This posture is the result of having a narrow headrest positioned at shoulder-level for the entire duration of a very long train journey.
This photo, taken from the 8m-high walls of Niš Fortress (Tvrdava), captures all the key features at the heart of Niš:
How to take revenge when the enemy army is annihilated ..... and yet victorious?
For 19th century Ottomans the answer was to decapitate the Serbian dead and to build a Skull-tower. It was intended as a warning for others but predictably it became a focus for Serbian nationalist pride.
